There are two main places to go: one is the beach area and the other is downtown. Roughly said, the beach is more mainstream and downtown is more alternative,
but there is always something going on in João Pessoa. There are three big urban beaches: Cabo Branco, Tambaú and Manaíra.
You can start walking down the promenade by the point called Busto de Tamandaré (bust of Admiral Tamandaré), that marks the boundary between Cabo Branco and Tambaú, towards Feirinha (little market). There are many bars, kiosks, restaurants and cafés, for all tastes and all pockets. At Feirinha there is a huge concentration of street cafés where you can have a lot to drink and to eat.
Downtown, where the old city is located, there are usually underground bands playing, alternative cafés and music and arts festivals going on. At Praça Rio Branco (Rio Branco Square), on Saturdays, there is the "Sabadinho Bom" (good little Saturday), a small samba festival. Many of these events are free of charge!
Here are some pages you can follow to make sure you won't miss a thing. So, activate your translation tool and visit: